Leather Care 101: A Quick Guide
Leather lasts when it is cared for the right way. The challenge is that not every product on the shelf is safe for every type of leather. Some are designed for rugged boots. Others work only for smooth finished hides. Some can permanently darken or dry out full grain leather. This guide breaks down the most common leather care products and explains which ones to use, which ones to avoid, and why.
Products to Avoid
Household cleaners: High pH levels and solvents that strip natural oils.
Alcohol wipes: Cause drying and surface lightening.
Silicone sprays: Leave a plastic-like coating that prevents breathability.
Heavy wax pastes: Can clog pores on natural leather and create dark patches.
Neatsfoot or heavy oils: Permanently darken and soften structure.
These products may work on old work boots, but they are not meant for full grain bags, journals, or wallets.
Traditional Saddle Soap
What it is: A strong soap with mild abrasives and lanolin.
Best for: Heavy-duty veg tanned leather, saddles, work boots, thick belts.
Avoid on: Natural or lightly treated full grain leather.
How it performs: Deep cleaning that can pull oils or lighten color if overused.
Traditional saddle soap has been used on tack for generations, but it is too strong for many modern leathers and can create uneven tones on untreated hides.
Glycerin Saddle Soap
What it is: A gentle, glycerin-based cleaner.
Best for: ColsenKeane full grain leather when used sparingly.
Avoid on: Raw veg tan and extremely pale hides where any moisture darkens the surface.
How it performs: Gentle clean that may slightly deepen tone, supports natural patina, and protects fibers.
Conditioning Saddle Soap
What it is: Soap blended with light oils.
Best for: Lightly soiled leather that needs a soft clean.
Avoid on: Very porous or pale leathers that stain easily.
How it performs: Mild clean and mild moisture.
It refreshes leather but is not a substitute for a true conditioner.
Mink Oil
What it is: A heavy, penetrating oil.
Best for: Work boots and outdoor gear that need strong water resistance.
Avoid on: Natural full grain leather, vegetable tanned leather, bridle leather, and most luxury goods.
How it performs: Excellent water resistance with permanent darkening and softening.
Mink oil is powerful, but it changes the leather’s character and structure. It is not ideal for bags, wallets, or fine goods.
Neatsfoot Oil
What it is: Deep conditioning oil made from cattle bone and feet.
Best for: Restoring very dry tack.
Avoid on: Most full grain bags, belts, and goods that need structure.
How it performs: Heavy conditioning with a strong darkening effect.
Neatsfoot oil can revive old leather, but it is too intense for most modern, minimally treated hides.
pH Balanced Leather Cleaner
What it is: A gentle cleaner made to match leather’s natural acidity.
Best for: Full grain leather, bridle leather, and luxury goods.
Avoid on: Raw veg tan when water alone is safer.
How it performs: Light cleaning without stripping oils.
This is the safest option for everyday care.
Leather Conditioner (Cream or Balm)
What it is: A blend of oils and waxes that replenish moisture.
Best for: Most full grain bags, wallets, journals, and accessories.
Avoid on: Suede or nubuck.
How it performs: Restores softness, prevents cracking, and supports natural patina.
Conditioner is the product most full grain leather truly needs.
Suede and Nubuck Cleaners
What it is: Dry cleaning bars or specialty sprays.
Best for: Suede shoes, jackets, and accessories.
Avoid on: Smooth or finished leather.
How it performs: Cleans without adding moisture.
These products lift dirt from the surface without damaging the raised fibers.
When in DOUBT Always look up the manufacturer's recommendation for the specific care of your leather product.Â
